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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.